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Film Camera Battery Guide: PX625, LR44, SR44, CR123A, 2CR5 & Modern Replacements
Find the right battery for a film camera: PX625, LR44, SR44, 4LR44, CR123A and 2CR5 explained, with voltage and compatibility checks.
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Find the right battery for a film camera: PX625, LR44, SR44, 4LR44, CR123A and 2CR5 explained, with voltage and compatibility checks.
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A film camera battery code is not a universal answer. Two cells can look alike, fit the same compartment or appear together in a seller’s listing while differing in voltage, chemistry or discharge behaviour.
Before inserting any battery, verify three things in the camera’s original manual or a reliable model-specific specification:
This guide explains the common codes found in film cameras. It is a reference for identification, not a substitute for the instructions for your exact body.
| Code | Chemistry and nominal voltage | Common names to look for | Important check |
|---|---|---|---|
| PX625 (historic) | Mercury, 1.35 V | EPX625 / PX625 in older manuals | Do not assume a 1.5 V modern cell is a metering-equivalent replacement |
| 625A / PX625A / LR9 | Alkaline, 1.5 V | 625A, PX625A, EPX625G, LR9 | Similar naming does not make it identical to the historic 1.35 V PX625 |
| LR44 | Alkaline, 1.5 V | A76, V13GA, LR44 | Check whether the manual permits alkaline cells |
| SR44 | Silver oxide, 1.55 V | 357, 303, S76E, SR44 | Same basic size as LR44, but a different chemistry and nominal voltage |
| 4LR44 | Alkaline, 6.0 V | 476A, A544, 4LR44 | Must match the body’s specified 6 V battery |
| 4SR44 | Silver oxide, 6.2 V | 4SR44 | Do not substitute for 4LR44 unless the camera documentation permits it |
| CR123A | Lithium, 3.0 V | CR123, 123, CR17345, DL123A | Check the exact voltage and terminal orientation |
| 2CR5 | Lithium, 6.0 V | 2CR5, C2CR5, DL245 | A distinct camera battery—not a pair of loose cells |
The names in this table are cross-references, not blanket interchangeability claims. VARTA’s current catalogue documents the chemistry, voltage, dimensions and common aliases for these cells.
Some classic cameras specify a 1.35 V mercury PX625 cell. The Olympus OM-1, for example, is documented with one PX625 mercury 1.35 V cell.
A current alkaline battery sold under a related name, such as 625A or PX625A, is listed by VARTA at 1.5 V. It may look close in size, but that does not prove that it will provide correct metering in a camera designed around 1.35 V.
For a camera with a mercury-cell specification:
This is especially important because a meter can appear to work while reading inaccurately.
LR44 and SR44 are commonly confused because both are about 11.6 mm in diameter and 5.4 mm high. Their labels describe different electrochemical systems:
Those small differences can matter to a meter or an electronic shutter. The Nikon F3 is a useful example because its published specification accepts two LR44 1.5 V or two SR44 1.55 V cells. That is a camera-specific allowance—not a reason to generalize the choice to every body.
For the wider Nikon system, see Nikon F-Mount Lens Compatibility Explained.
The 4LR44 is an alkaline 6.0 V battery. VARTA also lists a 4SR44 silver-oxide version at 6.2 V. Both are cylindrical multi-cell batteries, but the different chemistry and voltage make the camera manual decisive.
The Canon AE-1 is documented for one 4LR44 or 4G-13 6 V battery. Use the exact type named for your body; do not select a replacement by shape alone.
Later compact cameras and autofocus SLRs often rely on lithium primary cells.
A CR123A is a 3.0 V lithium cell also known as CR123, 123 or CR17345. The Nikon 35Ti is one camera documented for a single CR123A.
A 2CR5 is a 6.0 V lithium battery also sold as C2CR5 or DL245. It is a single battery format, not a generic instruction to combine cells. The Canon EOS 5 is documented for one 2CR5.
When a camera needs a lithium battery, match the exact code and voltage in its manual. Do not attempt to recharge a primary lithium battery.
Use this sequence:
Camera_DATA can help you identify the body and compare its specifications; explore the catalogue once you have the exact model.
These precautions protect both the electronics and an increasingly difficult-to-replace camera body.
Only if the camera documentation says that it accepts both. They share a basic physical size but differ in chemistry and nominal voltage.
No. The historic PX625 was a 1.35 V mercury cell; a current PX625A/625A is generally a 1.5 V alkaline cell. Similar naming and physical fit do not prove correct meter operation.
No. Never treat a physical fit as proof of electrical compatibility. Follow the model-specific manual.
Check the exact battery-compartment label and manual. Both are lithium batteries, but CR123A is a 3.0 V cell while 2CR5 is a 6.0 V battery with a different physical format.
For a vintage film camera, the right battery is the one specified for the exact body. Match the code, voltage, chemistry and layout; when a legacy mercury cell is involved, verify a model-specific modern solution before relying on the meter.
If you are still choosing a camera, Best Film Cameras for Beginners and Which Film Camera Should I Buy? can help you weigh battery dependence alongside format, lenses and condition.
Follow the decision in this order. Skipping one step is how a same-shaped but incorrect cell ends up in a vintage camera.
A cell that fits is only a candidate. It is not confirmed until all six checks agree.
| Code | Nominal voltage | Chemistry | Why it needs a separate check |
|---|---|---|---|
| CR2 | 3.0 V | Lithium | A different physical format from CR123A despite the similar voltage |
| CR123A | 3.0 V | Lithium | Also called CR123, 123 or CR17345; check its longer cylindrical dimensions |
| CR-P2 | 6.0 V | Lithium | A distinct 6 V camera battery, not a generic substitute for 2CR5 |
| 2CR5 | 6.0 V | Lithium | A separate 6 V physical format, also known as C2CR5 or DL245 |
| AA / Mignon / LR6 | Usually 1.5 V alkaline | Depends on the code | The body may require a specific chemistry, quantity and orientation |
| AAA / Micro / LR03 | Usually 1.5 V alkaline | Depends on the code | Never assume an AA compartment accepts AAA, or vice versa |
VARTA’s catalogue lists CR2, CR123A, CR-P2 and 2CR5 as distinct battery formats. Similar voltage does not make two formats mechanically or electronically interchangeable.
This phrase needs a model-specific answer. A film camera may have:
Do not use the camera type—SLR, rangefinder or compact—as a shortcut. Read the exact manual and test the exact function you intend to use.
Before calling a camera “working,” ask for or inspect:
A clean compartment is encouraging, but it does not prove a correct meter or electronic shutter. Conversely, a dead battery does not prove that the camera is faulty. The test needs the exact specified cell.
No. Both are nominally 3.0 V lithium cells, but VARTA lists different dimensions and they are distinct physical formats. Use the code specified for the camera.
Not automatically. They are different battery formats. The manual must name the permitted type.
Follow the camera manual. For a camera being stored for a long time, removal can reduce the risk from a leaking primary cell; keep the compartment dry and retain the battery-cap orientation or tray carefully.
Do not force in a new cell. Document the condition and seek appropriate repair advice if contacts are damaged; a fresh battery cannot correct a compromised electrical path.
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A film camera battery code is not a universal answer. Two cells can look alike, fit the same compartment or appear together in a seller’s listing while differing in voltage, chemistry or discharge behaviour.
Before inserting any battery, verify three things in the camera’s original manual or a reliable model-specific specification:
This guide explains the common codes found in film cameras. It is a reference for identification, not a substitute for the instructions for your exact body.
| Code | Chemistry and nominal voltage | Common names to look for | Important check |
|---|---|---|---|
| PX625 (historic) | Mercury, 1.35 V | EPX625 / PX625 in older manuals | Do not assume a 1.5 V modern cell is a metering-equivalent replacement |
| 625A / PX625A / LR9 | Alkaline, 1.5 V | 625A, PX625A, EPX625G, LR9 | Similar naming does not make it identical to the historic 1.35 V PX625 |
| LR44 | Alkaline, 1.5 V | A76, V13GA, LR44 | Check whether the manual permits alkaline cells |
| SR44 | Silver oxide, 1.55 V | 357, 303, S76E, SR44 | Same basic size as LR44, but a different chemistry and nominal voltage |
| 4LR44 | Alkaline, 6.0 V | 476A, A544, 4LR44 | Must match the body’s specified 6 V battery |
| 4SR44 | Silver oxide, 6.2 V | 4SR44 | Do not substitute for 4LR44 unless the camera documentation permits it |
| CR123A | Lithium, 3.0 V | CR123, 123, CR17345, DL123A | Check the exact voltage and terminal orientation |
| 2CR5 | Lithium, 6.0 V | 2CR5, C2CR5, DL245 | A distinct camera battery—not a pair of loose cells |
The names in this table are cross-references, not blanket interchangeability claims. VARTA’s current catalogue documents the chemistry, voltage, dimensions and common aliases for these cells.
Some classic cameras specify a 1.35 V mercury PX625 cell. The Olympus OM-1, for example, is documented with one PX625 mercury 1.35 V cell.
A current alkaline battery sold under a related name, such as 625A or PX625A, is listed by VARTA at 1.5 V. It may look close in size, but that does not prove that it will provide correct metering in a camera designed around 1.35 V.
For a camera with a mercury-cell specification:
This is especially important because a meter can appear to work while reading inaccurately.
LR44 and SR44 are commonly confused because both are about 11.6 mm in diameter and 5.4 mm high. Their labels describe different electrochemical systems:
Those small differences can matter to a meter or an electronic shutter. The Nikon F3 is a useful example because its published specification accepts two LR44 1.5 V or two SR44 1.55 V cells. That is a camera-specific allowance—not a reason to generalize the choice to every body.
For the wider Nikon system, see Nikon F-Mount Lens Compatibility Explained.
The 4LR44 is an alkaline 6.0 V battery. VARTA also lists a 4SR44 silver-oxide version at 6.2 V. Both are cylindrical multi-cell batteries, but the different chemistry and voltage make the camera manual decisive.
The Canon AE-1 is documented for one 4LR44 or 4G-13 6 V battery. Use the exact type named for your body; do not select a replacement by shape alone.
Later compact cameras and autofocus SLRs often rely on lithium primary cells.
A CR123A is a 3.0 V lithium cell also known as CR123, 123 or CR17345. The Nikon 35Ti is one camera documented for a single CR123A.
A 2CR5 is a 6.0 V lithium battery also sold as C2CR5 or DL245. It is a single battery format, not a generic instruction to combine cells. The Canon EOS 5 is documented for one 2CR5.
When a camera needs a lithium battery, match the exact code and voltage in its manual. Do not attempt to recharge a primary lithium battery.
Use this sequence:
Camera_DATA can help you identify the body and compare its specifications; explore the catalogue once you have the exact model.
These precautions protect both the electronics and an increasingly difficult-to-replace camera body.
Only if the camera documentation says that it accepts both. They share a basic physical size but differ in chemistry and nominal voltage.
No. The historic PX625 was a 1.35 V mercury cell; a current PX625A/625A is generally a 1.5 V alkaline cell. Similar naming and physical fit do not prove correct meter operation.
No. Never treat a physical fit as proof of electrical compatibility. Follow the model-specific manual.
Check the exact battery-compartment label and manual. Both are lithium batteries, but CR123A is a 3.0 V cell while 2CR5 is a 6.0 V battery with a different physical format.
For a vintage film camera, the right battery is the one specified for the exact body. Match the code, voltage, chemistry and layout; when a legacy mercury cell is involved, verify a model-specific modern solution before relying on the meter.
If you are still choosing a camera, Best Film Cameras for Beginners and Which Film Camera Should I Buy? can help you weigh battery dependence alongside format, lenses and condition.
Follow the decision in this order. Skipping one step is how a same-shaped but incorrect cell ends up in a vintage camera.
A cell that fits is only a candidate. It is not confirmed until all six checks agree.
| Code | Nominal voltage | Chemistry | Why it needs a separate check |
|---|---|---|---|
| CR2 | 3.0 V | Lithium | A different physical format from CR123A despite the similar voltage |
| CR123A | 3.0 V | Lithium | Also called CR123, 123 or CR17345; check its longer cylindrical dimensions |
| CR-P2 | 6.0 V | Lithium | A distinct 6 V camera battery, not a generic substitute for 2CR5 |
| 2CR5 | 6.0 V | Lithium | A separate 6 V physical format, also known as C2CR5 or DL245 |
| AA / Mignon / LR6 | Usually 1.5 V alkaline | Depends on the code | The body may require a specific chemistry, quantity and orientation |
| AAA / Micro / LR03 | Usually 1.5 V alkaline | Depends on the code | Never assume an AA compartment accepts AAA, or vice versa |
VARTA’s catalogue lists CR2, CR123A, CR-P2 and 2CR5 as distinct battery formats. Similar voltage does not make two formats mechanically or electronically interchangeable.
This phrase needs a model-specific answer. A film camera may have:
Do not use the camera type—SLR, rangefinder or compact—as a shortcut. Read the exact manual and test the exact function you intend to use.
Before calling a camera “working,” ask for or inspect:
A clean compartment is encouraging, but it does not prove a correct meter or electronic shutter. Conversely, a dead battery does not prove that the camera is faulty. The test needs the exact specified cell.
No. Both are nominally 3.0 V lithium cells, but VARTA lists different dimensions and they are distinct physical formats. Use the code specified for the camera.
Not automatically. They are different battery formats. The manual must name the permitted type.
Follow the camera manual. For a camera being stored for a long time, removal can reduce the risk from a leaking primary cell; keep the compartment dry and retain the battery-cap orientation or tray carefully.
Do not force in a new cell. Document the condition and seek appropriate repair advice if contacts are damaged; a fresh battery cannot correct a compromised electrical path.